Fertilizing is necessary to replenish the nutrients that your lawn consumes throughout the growing season.  Fertilizing also forces new growth and encourages a lush, thick lawn. A healthy lawn will reduce the possibility of weed growth and minimize stresses brought on by disease, drought and high traffic.

Your lawn will consume more nitrogen than any other nutrient.  Nitrogen gives grass its dark green color and rich look.

By using a recommended fertilizer application program such as the Maxlawn 4-application program.  The products will supply your lawn with the nutrients needed to achieve a thick and lush lawn throughout the growing season.

pH measures the amount of acidity or alkalinity in the soil. Turf grass prefers not to be very acidic.  If a soil test shows acidity, apply recommended amounts of limestone to reduce the acidity levels in the soil.

This is usually caused by heavy snow in the winter. It is called snow mold, and will go away after a light raking, fertilizing, and mowing. This condition is best prevented by mowing the lawn fairly short in the fall

The mowing height of grass will change during the year. In early spring, grass may be kept shorter than when it gets very warm. A good rule is 2.5 inches from spring through mid-June. From mid-June to the end of August, 3 inches is recommended. After the first of September, take the height down by half an inch every two weeks until you have it at 1.5 inches going into winter.

Sharpen your mower blades frequently so they do not tear the grass blades (torn blades may give the lawn a whitish cast).

Bahiagrass: 2 to 3 inches

Bentgrass: 3/8 to 3/4 inches

Bermudagrass: 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches

Bluegrass/Fescue Mix: 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches

Blugrass/Ryegrass mix: 1 to 2 inches

Carpetgrass: 1 to 2 inches

Centipedegrass: 1 to 2 inches Fine Fescue Grass: 1 to 2 1/2 inches

Kentucky Bluegrass: 1 to 2 1/2 inches

Perennial Ryegrass: 1 to 2 inches

St Augustine: 1 1/2 to 3 inches

Tall Fescue: 3 to 4 inches

Zoysia: 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches

Maintain the mowing schedule into the fall as long as the grass continues to grow. The lawn should go into winter at a lower height than it was maintained during the growing season.

If there is not adequate rain fall you may need to water your lawn to keep it in good condition.  The Midwest’s climate, along with the natural ability of many turf grass plants to survive dry periods, often makes lawn watering optional. During spring and fall, natural precipitation is usually adequate to cause excellent growth and color. During summer when rainfall is often insufficient for plant growth, watering is recommended to promote vigorous growth and green color.  The average lawn will use about one inch of water per week depending on the time of the year and temperature.

Water the lawn deeply and infrequently.  Water once a week or so during the summer (water less during cloudy and cool weather and more often when the weather is hot and windy).  Apply one inch of water at each watering.  Any rainfall during the week should be considered and watering should be reduced accordingly.

Note: Proper watering methods will vary with soils. In heavy soils, slow heavy watering is essential (usually once a week). In sandy soils, frequent, lighter watering is the rule (maybe every day or two).

To check if you are applying enough water, dig a hole with a trowel a couple of hours after watering.  The water should penetrate at least 8 inches.  Adjust your watering method as necessary.

When a lawn is newly established from seeding or sodding or is affected with patch disease symptoms, frequent watering is necessary to keep it alive.